Feather Dresses and Gowns: How to Wear Feathers for Evening

A feather dress works for evening when the feathers are placed with intent: a trim at the neck, a hem that moves, a single feathered top above a plain skirt. Wear one feathered piece and keep everything else quiet, and a feather dress reads as black tie rather than costume. Luxury Handbags currently carries nine feather dresses, gowns and tops worth considering for evening, priced from $880 to $40,330, and the newest arrival is the Huishan Zhang Mia Gown in black crepe jersey.

The new anchor: Huishan Zhang Mia Gown

The Mia Gown is the most restrained way into feathers this season. It is a floor-length column of black viscose crepe jersey with a sheer yoke and an embroidered flower at the neck, finished with ostrich feathers. The feathers sit at the neckline, so they frame the face and leave the body of the dress clean. The jersey follows the body without clinging, which matters in a gown you will sit down in at dinner.

At $2,520 it is also one of the more accessible feather gowns on the site. It is a Resort 2027 pre-order piece, made to order by the house, so it ships later than stocked items; Luxury Handbags confirms the dispatch window with you before the order is processed. Huishan Zhang trained at Central Saint Martins and worked in the haute couture atelier at Dior before launching his label in London, and that couture habit of placing one detail precisely is exactly what the Mia does with its feathers.

• Mia Gown in Black Crepe Jersey, $2,520 (pre-order)

If you like the Mia’s fabric but want no feathers at all, the same black viscose crepe jersey appears in two Resort 2027 midi dresses. The Reese has long blouson sleeves and an embroidered flower at the hip. The Eleni is a sleeveless sheath with ruching gathered into a flower at the waist.

• Reese Midi Dress in Black Crepe Jersey, $2,250 (pre-order)
• Eleni Midi Dress in Black Crepe Jersey, $1,960

Feather trim vs all-over feathers

This is the first decision, and it decides most of the others. A feather trim (at the neck, the cuff, the hem) adds movement and texture while leaving the dress itself to do the structural work. It is easier to sit in, easier to travel with and easier to clean, because the feathered area is small. It also suits a wider range of dress codes, since the silhouette underneath is usually a conventional gown.

All-over feathers are a different proposition. The whole surface moves, the volume increases, and the dress becomes the event. That is the right call for a gala where being photographed is the point. It is harder work at a seated dinner, in a taxi and in a crowded room, and you will spend the evening aware of what you brush against.

Between the two sit feather embroidery and feathered tops. Embroidery gives the look of plumage in thread and beading, which survives handling far better than real feathers. A feathered top worn with a plain skirt puts the volume where the eye goes first and keeps the lower half practical.

Ostrich, marabou and coque: what the names mean

Three feather types dominate eveningwear, and they look nothing alike.

• Ostrich has long, fine fronds on a central quill. It sways as you walk and catches the air, which is why designers use it at hems and necklines where movement shows.
• Marabou is short, soft and cloud-like. It reads as a fluffy halo rather than individual feathers, and it sheds more readily than ostrich.
• Coque is rooster tail feather: glossy, curved and stiffer, often with a dark sheen. It gives a sharper, more graphic edge than either of the others.

Only two pieces in this edit name their feather type, and both are ostrich: the Huishan Zhang Mia Gown and the Fabiana Filippi Platinum Sweater with Ostrich Feathers. For the rest, the product names say feather without specifying the bird, so check the composition label on the product page before you buy if the type matters to you.

Feather gowns for black tie and galas

For a formal evening, length does most of the work and the feathers do the rest. These are the floor-length options.

• Huishan Zhang Mia Gown in Black Crepe Jersey, $2,520
• Simkhai Malvina Feather Gown in Ivory, $2,600
• Oscar de la Renta Ombré Feather Embroidered Silk Chiffon Gown in Sky Blue, $40,330
• Oscar de la Renta Ombré Feather Embroidered Silk Chiffon Gown, $40,330

The Oscar de la Renta gowns sit at the top of the range for a reason: feather embroidery on silk chiffon, shaded in ombré, is serious hand work. The Oscar de la Renta pieces belong at a gala where the dress is expected to carry the evening. The Simkhai Malvina in ivory is the striking option for a party you are hosting, but it is the wrong choice for a wedding guest. For more floor-length options without feathers, see our edit of black evening gowns and the guide to black tie dresses.

The black feather dress for cocktail and New Year’s Eve

A short black feather dress is the most searched version of this look, and it is the one that suits New Year’s Eve best: it moves on a dance floor, it photographs at midnight and it needs no jewellery. The Simkhai Karlene is the mini on the site right now.

• Simkhai Karlene Feather Mini Dress in Black, $2,010

Keep the rest of the look spare. Sheer black tights in winter, a simple pump, a small clutch. If the dress has feathers at the hem, avoid a long coat that will crush them; a cropped jacket draped over the shoulders protects them better on the way in. For more short options with sleeves for cold nights, see our guide to long sleeve mini dresses.

Feather tops: the statement on top, the rest spare

A feathered top is the most versatile way to wear feathers, and the easiest to rewear. Put it with a plain skirt in the same colour and the outfit reads as a dress; put it with tailored trousers and it suits a dinner where a gown would be too much.

• Costarellos Luneth French Tulle Feather Top in Black, $2,000
• Scanlan Theodore Feather Silk Top in Black, $880
• Costarellos Lissia Mohair Wool Feathers Sweater in Black, $1,190
• Fabiana Filippi Platinum Sweater with Ostrich Feathers in Raffia, $1,930

The Costarellos Luneth is the dressiest of these, with feathers on French tulle. The Scanlan Theodore Feather Silk Top at $880 is the lowest entry point in this edit. The two knits from Costarellos and Fabiana Filippi are the ones for festive drinks and December dinners, when a gown is too formal.

Huishan Zhang makes the plain half of the outfit very well. A black skirt with weight to it balances the volume of feathers above.

• Huishan Zhang Neli Midi Skirt in Black Duchesse, $2,520
• Huishan Zhang Evelina Midi Skirt in Black Wool, $2,150
• Huishan Zhang Vania Midi Skirt in Black Tailoring, $1,780
• Huishan Zhang Randall Trousers in Black Crepe, $1,690

For more on cutting a skirt for evening, see the Huishan Zhang skirts guide.

Feather placement and the right occasion

For a gala in particular, our guide on what to wear to a gala covers dress codes in detail.

Caring for and storing feathers

Feathers last for years when they are treated as the delicate material they are. The rules are simple and worth following from the first wear.

• Clean with a specialist. Feathers should never go in a washing machine. Use a dry cleaner who handles couture and feathers, and point out the feathered areas when you drop the piece off.
• Store it hanging, with room. Hang the dress on a padded hanger in a breathable cotton cover, never plastic, and leave space on either side so the feathers are not pressed flat by the next garment.
• Never fold over feathers. A crease through ostrich fronds can take days to relax. If you must pack the piece, lay tissue between the feathers and the fabric and pack it last, on top.
• Keep it dry. Rain and humidity make feathers droop and clump. Carry an umbrella, avoid steamy rooms, and let a damp piece air at room temperature away from direct heat.
• Do not iron. Never press feathered areas. If the fabric needs attention, leave it to the specialist.
• Watch for moths. Feathers are keratin, which moths feed on. Check the piece between seasons and keep cedar in the wardrobe.

Frequently asked questions

What do you wear with a feather dress?

Keep everything else simple. A plain pump, a small clutch and minimal jewellery let the feathers lead; a statement necklace competes with feathers at the neck. In winter, sheer black tights work with a short feather dress, and a cropped jacket over the shoulders protects the feathers better than a long coat.

Is a feather dress appropriate for black tie?

Yes, when it is floor-length and the feathers are used as a trim. The Huishan Zhang Mia Gown, a black crepe jersey column with ostrich feathers at the neck, is a clear black tie answer at $2,520. Short feather dresses suit cocktail and New Year’s Eve better than a formal black tie evening.

What is the difference between ostrich and marabou feathers?

Ostrich feathers have long, fine fronds on a central quill and sway as you move. Marabou is short, soft and fluffy, so it reads as a cloud of texture rather than individual feathers, and it tends to shed more. Ostrich is the more common choice for evening hems and necklines.

How do you clean a feather dress?

Take it to a specialist dry cleaner who handles feathers and couture, and never put it in a washing machine. Point out the feathered areas when you drop it off. Between cleans, let it air after wearing and keep it away from moisture and perfume.

How should you store a feather dress?

Hang it on a padded hanger in a breathable cotton cover with space on either side so the feathers are not crushed. Avoid plastic, which traps moisture, and avoid folding through feathered areas. Check for moths between seasons, because feathers are keratin.

Can you wear a feather dress to a wedding?

As a guest, avoid ivory and white feather gowns, which compete with the bride. A black feather dress suits an evening reception with a formal dress code, and a feather trim is safer than all-over feathers at a church service. Our winter wedding guest dresses edit has more options.

Keep reading

• Huishan Zhang Resort 2027: the new pieces
• Black tie dresses: the designer edit
• Black evening gowns worth the investment
• Huishan Zhang evening gowns by occasion
• Gala dresses at Luxury Shoes
• Shop the full Huishan Zhang collection at Luxury Shoes