By Gemma Deeks, Fashion Editor at Luxury Shoes

What makes knitwear quiet luxury?

Three things. Natural fibres first, cashmere, merino, and silk over synthetics. Hand finishing second, the linked seams and trims a machine cannot fake. And no loud branding, the value is in the cloth and the cut, not a logo. The brands below all clear that bar. They differ on price and on the small signature each one is known for.

1. Brunello Cucinelli

The reference point for the whole category. Founded in 1978 in the Umbrian hamlet of Solomeo and now publicly listed, Cucinelli built its name on coloured cashmere and a soft palette of greiges. The womenswear signature is the monili, fine beaded trim at a collar and cuff. Prices sit at the top of the category. This is the flagship buy.

2. Loro Piana

The fabric house turned ready-to-wear name. Founded in 1924 and now part of LVMH, Loro Piana is known for the rarest raw materials, vicuña, baby cashmere, and superfine wool. The knitwear is understated to the point of invisible, which is the point. Expect the highest fabric quality in the group, at flagship prices.

3. Fabiana Filippi

The value pick of the Umbrian set. Founded in 1985 in Giano dell’Umbria and still family-owned, Fabiana Filippi makes cashmere knitwear and quiet tailoring in Italy, finished by hand with its signature Filo Diamante, a slim chain of brass beads at the neckline. It offers much of the Cucinelli look and craft at a more accessible price, which makes it the everyday choice for a logo-free wardrobe. See how the two compare in our Fabiana Filippi vs Brunello Cucinelli guide, and shop Fabiana Filippi at Luxury Shoes .

4. Max Mara

Better known for coats, but its knitwear earns a place here. Founded in 1951 in Reggio Emilia, Max Mara pairs clean Italian tailoring with reliable wool and cashmere knits at the most accessible price in this group. A sensible entry point to the category.

5. The Row

The American name on the list. Founded in 2006 by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, The Row turned minimalism into a house style, with cashmere and wool knits cut clean and roomy. It carries the strongest fashion-insider cachet, at prices to match Cucinelli and above.

6. Agnona

The quiet specialist. Founded in 1953 and long tied to the world of fine Italian fabrics, Agnona makes cashmere and wool knitwear with a pared-back, architectural hand. A lesser-known name that rewards the buyer who already knows the category.

Quick comparison

Which one should you buy?

For the best fabric, go to Loro Piana. For the marquee quiet-luxury name, Brunello Cucinelli. For the same Umbrian craft at a price you can wear every day, Fabiana Filippi is the smart pick. Max Mara is the easiest way in, and The Row is for the buyer who wants the fashion-insider edge.