Leo Lin Appliqué Explained: Laser-Cut, 3D Hand-Sewn Flowers and Beading

If one thing defines Leo Lin, it is the flowers. Almost every dress carries them: cut from the fabric with a laser, built up in three dimensions by hand, and beaded stitch by stitch. Of the Leo Lin dresses Luxury Handbags stocks today, 128 use at least one of these techniques. This guide explains each one, how to tell them apart and how to care for them.

For the story of the house itself, read who Leo Lin is.

What is appliqué?

Appliqué means a separate piece of fabric sewn onto the surface of a garment. Leo Lin uses it to add flowers, petals and bows that sit on top of the dress rather than being printed onto it, which is why the work has depth and catches light.

Laser-cut appliqué

Here a laser cuts flower shapes from the fabric, often around the neckline and hem, and the cut pieces are applied back onto the dress. It gives a clean, graphic edge and works best on firmer cloth like tweed, vegan suede and wool.

• Esther Appliqué Vegan Suede Mini Dress in Mahogany, $1,130. Mahogany, with laser cut floral appliqué with bow detailing and a round neckline.
• Carina Appliqué Tweed Mini Dress in Midnight, $1,420. Midnight, with laser cut floral appliqué with bow detailing and a round neckline.
• Roselle Appliqué Tweed Bustier Mini Dress in Midnight, $1,420. Midnight, with laser cut floral appliqué with bow detailing, a strapless neckline and a fitted waist.
• Elizabeth Short Sleeve Tweed Midi Dress in Midnight, $1,720. Midnight, with laser cut floral appliqué with bow detailing and matching bow belt included.

3D hand-sewn floral appliqué

The signature Leo Lin technique. Individual petals are cut, shaped and sewn on by hand so the flowers stand off the surface. It is the detail on the Rayna, the Roselle and the Resort 2027 Rose in Periwinkle pieces.

• Eiza Embroidered Bustier Bubble Mini Dress in Rose in Periwinkle, $1,720. Rose in Periwinkle, with 3D hand-sewn floral appliqué embroidery, a strapless neckline and a boned bust.
• Dahlia Petal Gown in Mahogany, $2,300. Mahogany, with 3D floral appliqué embroidery, a sweetheart neckline and corset bodice.
• Mila Embroidered Mini Dress in Rose in Periwinkle, $1,270. Rose in Periwinkle, with 3D hand-sewn floral appliqué embroidery, a square neckline and shoulder straps.
• Rayna Embroidered Bustier Maxi Dress in Rose in Periwinkle, $1,720. Rose in Periwinkle, with 3D hand-sewn floral appliqué embroidery, a strapless neckline and a boned bust.

Hand-sewn beading and embellishment

Beads, sequins and crystals are stitched on by hand to outline flowers and add shimmer. On the Resort 2027 Carina mini in Mahogany, Leo Lin says the beaded flowers take over 15 hours to sew.

• Carina Embellished Vegan Suede Mini Dress in Mahogany, $1,570. Mahogany, with hand-sewn beaded floral embellishments over 15 hours and a round neckline.
• Ana Off-Shoulder Embellished Lace Bustier Midi Dress in Snow Meadow, $2,890. Snow Meadow, with hand-sewn floral beading, strapless boned bust and A-line silhouette.
• Cleo Embellished Lace Sleeveless Midi Dress in Snow Meadow, $2,600. Snow Meadow, with hand-sewn beading, lace appliqué and fitted waist.
• Willow Embellished Lace Kaftan Maxi in Snow Meadow, $3,770. Snow Meadow, in lace with hand-sewn floral beading, boat neckline and wide sleeves.

Why it costs what it does

Hand work is slow. A printed dress can be made in hours; a dress with 3D appliqué and beading takes days of skilled sewing before it is finished. That is the main reason Leo Lin sits above contemporary labels on price. More in is Leo Lin a luxury brand.

Caring for appliqué and beading

• Dry clean with a specialist, and point out the hand work when you drop it off.
• Store on a padded hanger inside a breathable cover, never folded across the flowers.
• Keep jewellery, bag straps and seat belts away from the appliqué, which can snag.
• Steam from the inside, never iron directly over petals and beads.

More Leo Lin guides from Luxury Shoes

• Who is Leo Lin?
• Is Leo Lin a luxury brand?
• The Leo Lin Rayna dress
• Leo Lin Resort 2027 Sojourn
• Leo Lin gowns and maxi dresses
• White Leo Lin dresses
• Shop every Leo Lin piece at Luxury Shoes

Frequently asked questions

Is Leo Lin appliqué done by hand?

Much of it is. The 3D floral appliqué and the beading are hand-sewn; the laser-cut flowers are cut by machine and then applied.

How long does Leo Lin embellishment take?

It depends on the piece. Leo Lin states that the beaded flowers on the Carina mini dress take over 15 hours to sew.

Can you wash a Leo Lin appliqué dress?

No. Appliqué and beaded pieces should be specialist dry cleaned.

Which Leo Lin dresses have 3D flowers?

The Rayna, Roselle, Ali, Mila and Eiza styles are among the dresses with 3D hand-sewn floral appliqué.

Find the shapes in Leo Lin Rayna dress guide, Leo Lin gowns and best Leo Lin dresses, and every piece at Leo Lin at Luxury Shoes .